Do you get a super itchy scalp or see red bumps around your hairline after a salon treatment? You could be allergic to certain chemicals in hair products. Some shampoos, glosses, and dyes contain ingredients that cause irritation or even severe reactions in some people. Knowing what symptoms to look for and how to talk to your stylist can prevent discomfort at future appointments.
Symptoms That Indicate You’re Allergic to Hair Care Products
Irritation from hair products doesn’t necessarily indicate an allergy. For instance, The Mayo Clinic reports that a dry, itchy scalp can occur if chemicals in hair products strip hair of its natural oils. Benzyl alcohol, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl parabens are just some of the ingredients that remove oils and can cause dryness. So if you experience irritation after using something with those ingredients, try switching products.
If you are actually allergic to a hair care product, you may experience:
- Intense itching, burning, and redness of the scalp
- Redness and/or burning on the neck, face, and other areas where the product touched the skin while rinsing the hair
- Eczema lesions, which are small round or oval bumps on the skin that itch, ooze liquid, and have a crusty top layer
- Swollen eyelids and face, in severe allergies
- In extreme cases, swelling of the mouth, throat, or tongue, and trouble swallowing
Allergic reactions can show up right away or up to 48 hours after you’ve been in contact with the hair product. To determine if you have an allergy, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends testing the product at home using the following steps:
- Applying a quarter-sized spot on skin twice daily for 7 to 10 days. For a product like shampoo that you would rinse out, leave it on the skin for 3-5 minutes and then rinse. For a leave-in conditioner or other product that you wouldn’t rinse away, leave it on for several hours.
- If no redness, itching, or swelling occurs within 48 hours, keep using the product.
- If a skin reaction occurs, don’t use the product again and let your stylist know about your sensitivity.
What Chemicals in Hair Products Can Cause an Allergic Reaction?
Contact dermatitis, which is the term for an allergic reaction affecting your skin, happens when the immune system overreacts to chemicals on your body. Because skin on the scalp is so thin, it’s susceptible to strong reactions caused by chemicals in hair care products.
Chemicals that can cause adverse reactions include:
Dimethicone
Dimethicone is a silicone-based moisturizing ingredient used to coat hair cuticles to improve texture and aid in detangling. It’s often used in glosses for its smoothing effect. People who have a silicone-allergy may notice redness, inflammation, itching, swelling, or rashes when using it. Silicone-free alternatives such as argan oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, and grapeseed oil can also add shine, minimize frizz, and hydrate the hair.
Fragrances
Most of us have stood in front of the shampoo aisle and ooh’d and ah’d while sniffing the various options. Whether you love floral, fresh, or cupcake-scented styling products, those fragrances are created with chemicals and thus, can be allergenic. The manufacturers of these products don’t always disclose every ingredient, so it can be difficult to know exactly what’s causing the irritation. This is one reason why Vakkar Salon uses organic hair products that are created with natural bases, such as NaturalTech by Davines. If you notice irritation when using scented products, look for some that are fragrance-free, and definitely mention your sensitivity to your stylist.
Dyes
According to North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) data, the most common allergens in hair products are hair dyes. Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is a chemical found in most hair colors and the leading causes of allergic reactions in clients who have their hair dyed. In most dyes, PPD is mixed with developer. What is in hair developer? It’s hydrogen peroxide, and its purpose is to ensure that the hair color is long-lasting and uniform. Without it, your hair color would be more likely to fade quickly. Sometimes hair color contains ammonia, an alkaline compound of hydrogen and nitrogen. Ammonia penetrates the cuticle and allows the hair to absorb more color molecules, and also helps lighten existing pigment.
If you feel burning on your head or see a rash on your scalp or neck when getting your hair colored, you could be allergic to one of the ingredients. There are alternative dyes available without these chemicals, so ask your stylist for recommendations during your color consultation.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is produced during the decay of plant material in soil and during normal chemical processes in living organisms. It’s also released during the smoothing process of a keratin treatment. While it is a natural gas, it can cause irritation of the eyes, nose, and lungs as well as skin sensitivity or allergic dermatitis. These reactions tend to be worse when higher levels of formaldehyde are in the product, when a room is not properly ventilated, and in people with sensitive skin.
There are several ways to reduce the chances of irritation during a keratin treatment. First, choose a salon that does not offer Brazilian Blowout, as this type of treatment emits much higher levels of formaldehyde. Second, avoid at-home keratin treatments that contain formaldehyde or methylene glycol (the chemical equivalent to formaldehyde) since you are more likely to get the product on your hands and face. And third, choose an experienced stylist who will take appropriate precautions to minimize the amount of solution that comes in contact with your skin.
Food Allergens
It’s hard to imagine that hair products can be made with corn, nuts, and wheat, but it’s true – and anyone with a gluten intolerance who uses them will be able to tell. You can look for nut oils, wheat germ oil, wheat proteins, and wheat amino acids in the list of ingredients, but they may not always be listed if they are in the product. Instead, you may see vitamin E or A which can be wheat-derived. Or, instead of seeing corn in the ingredients, you may see vitamin C, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol.
And almost all shampoos contain coconut derivatives for their foaming effect, so anyone with a coconut allergy should skip these products.
Are There Really Hypoallergenic Hair Products?
While some hair product manufacturers claim that their brand is free of ingredients that can cause an allergic reaction, there are no federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term “hypoallergenic.” Manufacturers are not required to submit proof of their claims to the Food and Drug Administration. The prefix “hypo” actually means under, beneath, or less than normal, so hypoallergenic implies a less likely allergic reaction, but it should not be assumed that it’s “void of any allergic reactions”. Your best bet is to read the label in search of the allergen rather than purchase a product because it’s labeled hypoallergenic.
Think You’re Allergic to Hair Care Products?
If you suspect an allergy or sensitivity to a certain chemical in home hair products or the salon:
Take a Patch Test
To find out which specific ingredients are causing discomfort, you’ll need to visit a dermatologist. The doctor will apply a tiny amount of the diluted suspected allergen to the skin, then read results after 96 hours. If the site is red, raised, or blistering, it will confirm specific chemicals in hair products that you’re allergic to.
Choose Products with Fewer Ingredients
When it comes to hair products, a shorter list of chemicals is always best. There are companies such as Davines that strive to create hair products that are made from organic materials and are less likely to cause skin sensitivity.
Have an Honest Discussion with Your Stylist
If you know you are allergic to hair care products, be sure to mention it during your consultation and before every appointment. Your stylist will find an alternative product to make sure you stay comfortable. If you are not aware of an allergy or sensitivity but notice itching, burning, or redness on your scalp, neck, or face after a visit to the salon, bring it up as soon as you notice it so they can take notes for next time. Hopefully between your doctor and your stylist, you can figure out what causes the irritation so you don’t experience it again.
Vakkar is committed to using sustainable products that are safe for our clients, and we strive to make you as comfortable as possible during and after your visit. Whether you have questions about shampoos we use, wonder what is in hair developer, or would like a recommendation for organic products to use at home, just ask! Call us any time at (314) 991-1616.
